Shoot 1

This first shoot I want to experiment with different ND filters and a slow shutter speeds. I plan on going to Connaught Waters because theirs flowing water and with a slow shutter speed I hope to capture some interesting shots. This shoot is going to mainly experiment with what works best and establishing which ND filter do what and how they change the amount of light captured. I also need to get the speed of the shutter at the correct speed to create a sense of movement and also match the right ND filter..

After Editing I hope to achieve about 8 images that show experimental work and some water shots like the image below.

Equipment needed:

Tripod
Camera
Extra Battery Pack
ND Filters

This shoot didn't go to plan but I am really happy with the images I got. I produced 12 images where I experimented with the shutter speed. On the shoot I planned to photograph the movement of running water but I couldn't find a composition that I liked and the water wasn't running fast enough. I will try this again when I find the setting I want. Because this didn't work I experimented with the shutter speed and light. I used the forest to capture the shots above and I think they really work as a series of images.  Even through I didn't get what I originally set out to do, i'm happy I had a back up idea and that I didn't waste the time.  

When editing most of these images I wanted to show the blur and the light in the image. To do this I edited the levels, curves, saturation and the brightness. I wanted the images to be a clear series so I wanted to crop them all the same way and I also thought a white boarder would work will. I think the square crop really works for these image because it makes the content of the image less recognisable.

Overall I am really happy with the outcome of this shoot even though its not what I was expecting to achieve.

The image to the left is the image I think is the most effective. This image is a small crop of a larger image, which I cropped because I felt that the rest of the image was distracting and wasn't as effective to look at compared to this crop. The light in this image makes this image spooky looking and I think the shade of blue enhances this.

The image to the left I feel is the least effective. I think this image doesn't fit in with the series because it doesn't have the same colour scheme to the other images. If I were to re-edit this image I would lower the saturation. I like the blur of the image and I think the reflection of the trees in the pond creates a symmetry to the image.








For the my next shoot I want to experiment with time and I want to test out my intervalometer.

Term Two, Project Two, Practice of Statement Of Intent (First Draft)

Photographers

Slow shutter speed:
Xavier Rey 
Darren Almond

Tyler Westcott
Chris Friel

Jean-Marc Robin 

Time Lapse:
Anya Gallaccio, 1991–200, preserve ‘beauty’ 
Mattia Bicchi
Rob Whitworth

Night Photography:
O Winston Links, 1950’s, American night scenes

Anthony James 

Intervalometer for a Nikon D3200

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Proster-Control-Intervalometer-Continuous-Shooting/dp/B00EXPJJZK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1424788310&sr=8-4&keywords=intervalometer+nikon+d3200

New Project Research

http://www.nikonusa.com/en/Learn-And-Explore/Article/h0ndzhvw/photographing-the-night-sky-star-trails.html

Key Points: (Quoted)(Added)

• To photograph the stars in the sky as pinpoints of light, start with as wide an f/stop as your lens allows, and shutter speed of about 20 seconds. Any more time than that and the stars will begin to blur. Increase the ISO as needed for a good exposure.
• High Dynamic Range (HDR): One technique is to take multiple shots, bracketing or varying the actual exposure time, and merge them as HDR which you can composite with the final image of the properly exposed sky.
• High-dynamic-range imaging (HDRI or HDR) is a set of techniques used in imaging and photography to reproduce a greater dynamic range of luminosity than standard digital imaging or photographic techniques can do. The aim is to present the human eye with a similar range of luminance as that which, through the visual system, is familiar in everyday life. 
• Speedlights: while the shutter is open, press the Speedlight’s Flash button. As with the constant light, move the Speedlight across the scene to allow the flash to illuminate the entire foreground.
• “If a night scene includes low-lying clouds…these clouds are likely to reflect colors of the night sky, and to amplify whatever effect was already present,” explains Harold (Harold Davis)
• D4, 14-24mm f/2.8 lens, 25 sec., f/4, ISO 4000, Matrix metering, manual exposure. Speedlights with red and yellow gels manually "popped" to paint light onto foreground.

http://www.nikonusa.com/en/Learn-And-Explore/Article/i24iqk33/photograph-the-classic-holiday-light-bokeh-effect.html

Key Points: (Quoted)

• A classic shot that many photographers take is the out of focus or bokeh view of colorful holiday lights. Experiment with strands of color and white lights. In either aperture priority or manual exposure modes, select the fastest aperture that your lens allows and using the camera's meter, expose correctly. With the lens focused manually, you can defocus the lights for this classic look. Exposure: 1/80 of a second shutter speed, f/4 aperture, ISO 5600, aperture priority.
  

More research 

Good website for night photography:

http://mostlylisa.com/blog/night-photography-a-guide-on-how-to-shoot-long-exposures/

New Project Initial ideas

Final Pieces

Series 1

Series 2 

Series 3

Series 4

Series 5